Citations is an ongoing series where I attempt to unravel the multitude of influences that pave the way to now. In these posts, I trace the people, things and experiences which shaped my thinking, and form the underpinnings of a creative outlook. You can view more of the series here.
Worn Fashion Journal
Worn, worn, worn... how many words can I entangle today to express how much adoration I hold for you? Or perhaps that should be held, since the final issue landed with a thud through my post box in January. What struck me then, was that this was an opportune moment to reflect on the publication. Delve into those bits of the Worn ethos that I've subconsciously nicked from every issue I've read, and resonate still today.
Worn Journal has a core, maybe cult, following and doubtless, some reading here may count yourselves amongst them. I came to Worn in 2009; when, through the joys of Twitter, I was sent a review copy for the tiny blog I kept at the time. The only remnant of that review is the photograph at the top, but suffice to say reading that issue was enough to hook me into Worn's World. Back issues and subscriptions were bought, and copies remain amongst the treasured possessions on my bookshelf. Maybe you'll have similar stories.
Worn was a breath of fresh air, in the stale climate of late noughties magazines tied to transient trend-led, or celebrity-focused fashion coverage. It tapped into the wealth of knowledge surrounding fashion, with articles delving into history, construction and niche corners that occupy our dressed lives. Worn wrote what many mainstream magazines seem to ignore; and ignored the rulebook others like to follow. There were no lists, unless you count pieces on the history of shirt collars or types of lace, and articles danced the line of accessiblity and academics.
In short, inked into every letter printed was their nitty gritty unpicking of what clothes could mean, and a core celebration of the diversity in style.
These days magazines that occupy a similar location/time independence, or 'zines that try to go beyond surface skimming, are in greater abundance. Maybe this is due to tensions between the digital and print publishing worlds, or maybe it's a zeitgeist thing; but to survive within media-saturation, printed magazines often elect to exist in a leisure space akin to the savouring delight of the meal you've spent an afternoon concocting. Worn was, I suppose, like those – but also not quite. The content seemed less about presenting a very deliberate lifestyle, and more about opening a dialogue with lived lives, through varied sartorial matters. There is potential in that minor shift of framework, because it allows the words to go beyond the specifics of the Worn visual language. In reading issues, you can learn and think about fashion, and through this discover the dimensions for yourself.
In the editors letter of the final issue, Serah-Marie talks about how she's a maker. Breaking things down into easier, more digestable parts so as to understand better. It is this sentiment, that weaves into some of what I'm trying to do here, with this Citations series and indeed the whole Odyle thing, whatever it may end up being.
For my 18-year-old self back in 2009, the pages of Worn showed me the depth and diversity in dressing, and fostered a thirst to learn more about everything beyond that. Worn existed - and maybe still does - with a diverse heart, questioning mind and DIY soul. And that's something worth citing.
Best of the Rest
Visiting the XYZT exhibition in Paris.
Denim, chambray and blue suede shoes: unravelling the fuss about Blue.
Lessons from Worn Fashion Journal.
On testing, costumes and abandoning ideas.
Revisiting the Cheap Date Guide to Style by Kira Jolliffe and Bay Garnett.
Recollections from Devon.
A museum related musing.
The tale of a long lost love, in a jacket formation.
On finding your voice.
Chatting planet and process with Yorkshire-based label, Antiform.